Rome - where the ancient and modern worlds collide

In a matter of weeks, Italy, hit by a tsunami of coronavirus cases punctuated by an incessant stream of deaths, has been branded as “one of the hardest-hit countries” by media across the world. As I skimmed through articles of the country’s battle against the virus, my heart sank. In my head, I saw the smiles of locals that mirrored the warmest rays of light and wondered, whether they were still smiling.

When in Rome, do as the Romans do unless you want to lose your way amongst snaking passageways between longstanding buildings or miss out on the world’s best gelato. Hauling my luggage along cobblestone roads, I gaped at my surroundings. Sepia wall paint fluttered like autumn leaves to the ground, a huge moss-covered fountain lit up the square and a colourful market selling flowers and spices stood out.

Rome is where the antique and modern intertwine like the most harmonious melody. Imagine having one of the Seven Wonders of the Medieval World - the Colosseum - as your next-door neighbour while dining at restaurants next to the Pantheon. It was mind-blowing to see historical monuments, once on mere pages, come alive in this ancient metropolitan. Stepping into the Colosseum made me feel like a spectator watching the shadows of past intense gladiator fights. Wandering about the Palatine Hill with scattered ruins of the Roman Empire made me imagine Julius Caesar standing atop the Roman Forum, addressing his people. Rome is every History student’s must-visit, whether or not you are fond of the subject.

A bridge away from my apartment laid the Vatican City, which is not a city, but the smallest country in the world. It is also home to the largest church in the world, St Peter’s Basilica. The symmetrical silhouette of St Peter’s Basilica glimmered under the soft morning glow when there was already a snaking queue at the entrance, half an hour before the opening time. However, the wait was nothing compared to the imperial ambiance of the basilica, adorned with intricate marble sculptures, with Michelangelo’s dome towering over visitors. I almost gave up on scaling 231 steps up a slanted, shoulder-width stairwell to the top of the dome but all that wheezing and trembling was worth it. The panoramic view from the top depicted the Vatican stretching out into the embrace of the clouds above. It was as if seeing scenes from Angels and Demons by Dan Brown playing out before my eyes.

Strolling down the cobblestone roads, I witnessed an ‘invisible’ man dressed in elaborated garments, except that his glasses seemed to hang in thin air, and a genie that spouted out of a tiny golden lamp. Horse carts trotted alongside public buses while restaurants with no more than three tables housed chatty locals who laughed over a giant pizza that was oozing cheese.

For most of the trip, meals were made up of pizzas and spaghetti and a whole lot of cheese. No description will ever do justice to the piping crispy pizzas that melted into a pool of cheese and meat upon the first bite, or the slick spaghetti garnished with toppings ranging from fresh olive oil to blushing shrimps. For dinner, I settled with prepacked-salads over hot wine, tucked snugly in the rustic homestay apartment.

Then came the discovery of a gem – a gelato store that served more than 150 flavours of goodness, with champagne and cookie dough at both ends of the spectrum. At 5°C, I licked three flavourful cups clean, freezing my mouth and leaving my soul high on sugar.

The local dessert was as cool as the locals were warm. Throughout the city, conversations never stopped and smiles were aplenty. Most Italians speak English, but when I conversed with them in simple Italian, their faces glowed like golden stars. The way amiable Italians greeted me with a cheerful “Ciao” and “Buongiorno” was enough to make anyone’s day, and yet, the locals go the extra mile in caring for strangers. From the shopkeeper who warned me about an upcoming storm to the hotel receptionist who got me hot drinking water from his own coffee machine, Italians have proven themselves – to me a least - to be courteous and considerate. A waiter who was the spitting image of ‘Mr Bean’ even entertained us with tricks as we slurped our spaghettis clean. No doubt, the inner beauty of the locals are worthy of the country’s magnificent allure.

It was with heartbreak that I read about Italy’s devastation during the pandemic. However, I have hope in the locals and the country, that their optimism and camaraderie will bring them through the storm. One day, you will find me where the sun meets the land and the hearts of all locals once again.

---